Getting cultural references right
Minority representation and cultural references carry commercial value. Yet, instances of tired, dated and incorrect applications of culture are routine, which feel out of place in today’s morally and socially-conscious world. While most of my recent wrath has been directed at Netflix bodice ripper Bridgerton’s generic Indian Sharmas, there is plenty more for the food industry to feast on.
Photo by Angèle Kamp on Unsplash
First, the good news: much has changed for the better. I contributed to a magazine article recently, which features four diverse families cooking and eating in celebration. The first one I did 10 years ago for a different publication, came with the brief “can you dress in traditional clothes and lay the table in Indian style, as you would for for your friends and family”.
My sister waited for the guidelines for her latest involvement with trepidation: “I hope they’re not expecting day glo outfits and marigolds,” alluding to the idea of “tacky NRI fashion”. The brief for the photoshoot this time was “come as you are and wear what you feel comfortable in”. A testament to cultural intelligence and a sign of our times, if there ever was one.
CQ means three main considerations when representing cultures that are not your own: accuracy, nuances and reciprocal respect.
First and foremost, cultural references need to be accurate and acceptable. St Patrick’s Day, for example, is an annual assault on taste for the Irish. “So many of the reference points for Irish food veer from outdated (Guinness or potatoes in everything) to just plain wrong (corned beef and cabbage is a dish from the Irish diaspora in America, not Ireland itself) to offensive (the drinks called Irish car bombs and Black & Tans are completely unacceptable),” says Kristin Jensen, publisher and writer at Blasta Books and Nine Bean Rows Books.
“Judging by the recipes you see rehashed every St Patrick’s Day, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the only things we eat in Ireland are soda bread and beef stew. There is so much more to Irish food than that,” she continues.
Food writer Niamh Shields echoes her sentiments with a joint distaste of green cupcakes and more. “We brace ourselves for these Irish references every St Paddy’s Day, which aren’t Irish at all,” she says. “It’s blatant cultural misunderstanding and the disemination of misinformation, and it’s a particular problem with online food culture. If we looked at the brilliant content coming out of Irish food writers and producers instead, it would be so much more accurate,” she adds.
She points to the challenge of people holding on to nostalgic memories and stories, while food and culture is more dynamic. Cultural nuances can often get lost in the scramble. Food writer Sejal Sukhadwala, author of Philosophy of Curry, noted how an overemphasis on tropes like the “mythical matriarch” spinning heirloom recipes can get in the way of reflecting modern day realities of Indian cooking and eating. While these heritage stories may apply to many, it prompted me to share a photo of my mother, aunt and friends drinking gimlets in handloom dresses in hazy Calcutta sunshine.
There is also a difference between the cultural identity of the diaspora and those in the homeland. Nostalgia and memories play a crucial role in maintaining connections and creating new identities for displaced and mobile communities, which often don’t reflect the reality of the homeland. If food and culture are evolving and dynamic, how we represent them needs to reflect this.
Getting it wrong can restrict, limit and inhibit progress. Kristin doesn’t mince her words: “To be blunt, continuing these clichés of Irish food year after year is lazy food writing and it perpetuates the outdated stereotypes of what Irish food is. It does not reflect the diverse, modern and vibrant food culture that we have in Ireland and it does a disservice to the story of what our food actually is by preventing the story and perceptions of Irish food from moving forward.” This applies to the food of many other cultures.
And finally, there is the matter of personal responsibility. Respect is a two-way street. If you want your culture represented with due diligence and care, then you have to return the favour and uphold the same high moral standards when working with the food and flavour of others. If you’re sharing Asian salads and talking Turkish pizzas, while rolling your eyes at crime committed against your favourite curries, then a moment of meditation might have its merits.
If you’re going to profit from leveraging culture then the onus is on you is to get it right. Anything less than well thought through, is likely to be mostly unpalatable.
Food writing for today’s world
I’m hosting two new courses for the British Library, during their Food Season, for anyone who wants to feel energised and inspired to confidently write sparkling copy that is in tune with the world we live in today. We’ll be making a decision on whether to press ahead with them or postpone to chillier months based on the number of bookings made by 1st May, so if you’d like to attend please do book before that.
A three-part, weekly introductory online course starting on 5th May, 17:30 - 19:00:
Session one - Discover the dos and don’ts of food writing, how to get started and keep going within the context of the world we live in today (including food as a force for good, cultural appropriation and inclusivity).
Session two - Prepare to publish by developing your personal brand and voice, stand out with photography, navigate social media and make a connection with your audiences.
Session three: How to pitch work to editors and commissioners, publish and monetise our words, and build an audience that is hungry for more.
A two-day, on-site masterclass, starting Sat 21 May 2022, 10:30 - 17:00:
Over the weekend, we will find time and space to write our own words, share passages from authors we love, and develop a strong voice and personal brand through group discussions and expert insight.
Food writing stalwarts Lulu Grimes, Orlando Murrin and photographer Julian George will be attending as guest experts.
I hope to see you there! If you bought tickets to attend my first ever talk at the Food Season, thank you. It’s now sold out. Although we may have an online link to share after.